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From Ibanez I backtracked to Coyhaique where I holed up in a pleasant Hospedaje with a Belgian hiker and pair of Swiss tandemists waiting on spares for their bike to arrive. Fierce bad weather kept me there for a few days. On the first break in the clouds I scampered down the sealed road as far as the CONAF campground half way to Chacabuco. There I set my tent in a covered picnic shelter and stayed put until the following afternoon to sit out more torrential rain. On leaving camp and heading for the Carretera turnoff a few kms West I met a pair of Dutch cyclists who told me the road North was deplorable - the worst they'd ever cycled. I'd heard this before - one Belgian couple had said I'd have to hitch through the Parque Queulat as they had - it was impossible to ride - covered in stones the size of your fist, they said.
With trepidation I turned onto the dirt road and chugged North. The first few kilometres were good, very good. Because of the dampness the surface was firm, not dusty. Soon, I thought, it would deteriorate. At the end of the day I'd made good time, met about 6 more cyclists and found a comfortable dry bed for the night. Road speed was only slightly slower than sealed road. I believe the first 50km of this stretch - to 15 or so km north of Manihuales is now (2004) sealed. The scenery was lush (3 pics in Parque Nacional Queulat). And so it went for day after day. The constant tailwind helped, but to this day I can't imagine what it was that so many cyclists found so difficult. On the whole the road was in exceptional repair, the scenery was brilliant - even more so when the clouds broke, accommodation was cheap, welcoming and comfortable (so much so that I got lazy about using my tent) and motor traffic was minimal. The "impassable" road in Parque Queulat turned out to be a 200 metre stretch of chunky rubble around a newly built bridge. I got off and walked it.
Sometimes the dense rain forest almost manages to choke the Carretera. Low cloud frequently obscures the scenery, so try to give yourself enough time - I met some cyclists who covered the distance from Chaiten to Coyhaique in five days without seeing a thing. Fortunately I had the luxury of being able to sit out the worst of the weather. |